Thomson works, but....

[RT-Cat]

The actuator from the dish I just picked up on Friday works to an extent. I hooked it up for testing to my old DSR920 that I no longer use. I can extend or retrack the actuator but only short bursts at a time. It sounds OK when running. I can't get any numbers to change in the 920 when I try to move it. Makes me think there is a problem with the counting device. It will move a short distance and stop with the message I hit a limit. Press "Go Back" and I can move it again a short distance. Have moved it almost all the way "out" but still can not get any count to change.
So what is bad with this unit?

RT.

 

[Magic Static]

Bad sensor or wiring to sensor is the problem. Can you check it with an ohm meter?

 

[Pixl]

That is the sure symptom for lack of pulses.
Looks like there are magnets in there so the reed switch would be the prime suspect. Of course there is the usual re-check the pulse wiring, and that there is approx 5v. from the receiver on that circuit.

 

[RT-Cat]

Bad sensor or wiring to sensor is the problem. Can you check it with an ohm meter?

Checked. It is "on the bench" so the wire is about three feet long. Both wires and ground check out.

That is the sure symptom for lack of pulses.
Looks like there are magnets in there so the reed switch would be the prime suspect. Of course there is the usual re-check the pulse wiring, and that there is approx 5v. from the receiver on that circuit.

Voltage is there. Question on the wiring. There really is no way of knowing if they are connected correctly. If the 920 would state 5+ volts on one connector and (-) on the other sure would help along with markings on the actuator connectors. Really nothing that helps there. If hooked up "wrong" does that blow the reed switch?
.
If the reed switch is bad anyway of checking it? Also where would I find a new one?
Thanks Guys.

RT.

 

[Magic Static]

I know nothing about 4DTV stuff. How are you planning on controlling an actuator? Are you going to use a DiSEqC1.2 device? Or the 920?
My experience with the V/GBox, if you reverse the sensor wires you reverse the count is all. But I roasted a sensor by hooking up the motor wires to it once.

 

[Larry1]

First make a drawing of the current wiring for it can be put back after you test the sensor. If you disconnect the blue and black wires from the sensor (the black tube above the magnet wheel) that go to the terminal block for there are no connections to the sensor, then hook an ohm meter to these two wires going to the sensor, when the motor turns and the magnet passes below the sensor, you should see the meter (if analog meter) needle briefly jump. If a digital meter, should read infinity or open, then a brief flash of a reading as the magnet moves by. Also, if you remove the sensor and move a magnet around it, you should get the meter to go from open to short. That is the reed sensor is open then the magnet is pullling the reeds inside the sensor together for the two wires are shorted together. (zero ohms)
The sensor needs to be close enough to the magnets for the reed switch closes as the magnets pass by, buy far enough away for it does not scrape as the wheel turns.

 

[Cham]

Just make sure you don't mix up the motor wires and the sensor wires. That would likely blow up the sensor.

 

[gabshere]

lol

i was always told to be careful of the sensor wires but i never tried reversing them but i think it will work either way . every setup i've ever looked at has the green wire on the inside terminal block and brown / orange on the outside.

also here's a old thread

 

[richyrich]

Or the two sensor wires are continually shorted somewhere in the wire. Or the 12v and the 5 vdc sense wire are shorted, which would blow up a sensor circuit; reed sw at 5vdc is how to wire it; if you make a count at the end of the wire from the receiver, and do so by tapping the 2 wires together in a continuos period of time, like a cadence; the motor will move long distances; then it is the sensor; usually.

 

[RT-Cat]

I know nothing about 4DTV stuff. How are you planning on controlling an actuator? Are you going to use a DiSEqC1.2 device? Or the 920?
My experience with the V/GBox, if you reverse the sensor wires you reverse the count is all. But I roasted a sensor by hooking up the motor wires to it once.

Ouch! I hooked it up to the 920 ONLY to check it out to see if it would work. Been setting unused for over 10-13 years. Just wanted to see if it was OK.

First make a drawing of the current wiring for it can be put back after you test the sensor. If you disconnect the blue and black wires from the sensor (the black tube above the magnet wheel) that go to the terminal block for there are no connections to the sensor, then hook an ohm meter to these two wires going to the sensor, when the motor turns and the magnet passes below the sensor, you should see the meter (if analog meter) needle briefly jump. If a digital meter, should read infinity or open, then a brief flash of a reading as the magnet moves by. Also, if you remove the sensor and move a magnet around it, you should get the meter to go from open to short. That is the reed sensor is open then the magnet is pullling the reeds inside the sensor together for the two wires are shorted together. (zero ohms)
The sensor needs to be close enough to the magnets for the reed switch closes as the magnets pass by, buy far enough away for it does not scrape as the wheel turns.

Tried that with an analog meter. Instead of a jump of the meter, I received various ohm readings. Never really got an "on/off" reading. Looks like reed is not working correctly.
.
Where is the best place to get a replacement?
.
Thanks for all answers.

RT.

 

[waylew]

A reed sensor is hooked to the "pulse"and "ground" terminals only, on the 920,or most any ird.No voltage should be applied to the sensor.Surest way to test the sensor is remove it ,hook it to an ohm meter and use a magnet to check whether it opens and closes.

 

[turbosat]

RT- I think I have one or two of those things somewhere around here, let me look tomorrow and I'll tell you.
Not sure how hard they would be to find these days, but I have several old actuators that the tube broke or something happened to them, I'm sure several of those would still have good sensors in them. ( the triangle shaped plastic thing).
I'll PM you tomorrow.

 

[FaT Air]

+12v----lamp-----sensor------negative (small lamp, ~100ma to
+12v----switch-----motor-----negative
watch the lamp flash with the motor switch turned on
reverse motor leads to reverse direction.
(switch could be a DPDT center off, wired for polarity reversal, for ease of use
In which case:
+12------Switch-----motor
-12-------Switch-----motor)
One place I know of Switches | Magnetic, Reed | DigiKey

 

[richyrich]

And in any case; an old sensor used by alarm companies and garage door gate people; is all you need. Some are larger than others, reed switches range to different sized tubes with glass case; and some have "holders" or where the glass is encased in plastic or a case that opens to it. Thomsons/saginow was round? and screwed into a holder, and the case and threads were held round firmly.

Triangle contain two (2) leaded to 2 ended reed switch, or:
(1) 5vdc max. glass tube reed switch with leads and wires new.yes, this is a must for FTA and they cost now 2 more dollars each; makes them $5; more if u have to drive.

( the triangle shaped plastic thing).

 

[RT-Cat]

RT- I think I have one or two of those things somewhere around here, let me look tomorrow and I'll tell you......( the triangle shaped plastic thing).
I'll PM you tomorrow.

Sounds great!....Off to slave(work)now.

RT.

 

[turbosat]

Still looking for the thing, RT, if I didn't want it now, it'd be in the floor under my feet lol. At least it is a brand new one, when I discover it again.

 

[turbosat]

I don't have it after all!

After much searching, I finally found this thing, but it isn't even close to what I thought I had. Here's the picture, its an "HTS Supersensor" but don't see a way it'd work for you. Sorry, I was full of @#! this time.

 

[johann12]

+12v----lamp-----sensor------negative (small lamp, ~100ma to
+12v----switch-----motor-----negative
watch the lamp flash with the motor switch turned on
reverse motor leads to reverse direction.
(switch could be a DPDT center off, wired for polarity reversal, for ease of use
In which case:
+12------Switch-----motor
-12-------Switch-----motor)
One place I know of Switches | Magnetic, Reed | DigiKey

Hope this helps.
Here is a drawing for manually operating the actuator back and forth .
I used a double pole double throw momentary switch.
Hook it up to 12 or 24 volts DC.
I used this to align my dish before I got the V-Box.

View attachment 79291View attachment 79292

 

[RT-Cat]

After much searching, I finally found this thing, but it isn't even close to what I thought I had. Here's the picture, its an "HTS Supersensor" but don't see a way it'd work for you. Sorry, I was full of @#! this time.

No problem. Thanks for looking.

Hope this helps.
Here is a drawing for manually operating the actuator back and forth .
I used a double pole double throw momentary switch.
Hook it up to 12 or 24 volts DC.
I used this to align my dish before I got the V-Box.

View attachment 79291View attachment 79292

I get an "Invalid attachment specified" error on your link.

RT