775 Code---Bad LNB Or SWIM Power?

[Rebel Racing]

Hi Guys,

Working on a HR24 with a Slimline Dish. Worked fine Monday night and when we powered in on Tues Morning I get a 775 error. Red button re boot doesn't help. Total power down makes no difference. Checked all connections and all was fine. Equipment is roughly 8-10 yr old. I can access the list of recorded media. I am thinking it is either the LNB or the SWIM power (the light is on). Thoughts??

Thanks!!

 

[Tom Speer]

Your diagnosis is correct. Do you have any SWM switches? If you just have splitters, trace the power through port 1 (red port) of any splitter in the path from the SWM power supply to the LNB. Reseat all the coax connections. The SWM power should be 18 to 25 volts between the center and shield on any coax going into port 1 of any splitter, and the same voltage should be on the common or upstream port of any splitter. If you can get to the LNB, disconnect the coax and measure the voltage on the coax. If the voltage is getting

 

[Stuart Sweet]

It could also be the SWM tuner inside the HR24. If I remember right the last HR24 was made in 2011, they're all on their last legs.

 

[Rebel Racing]

Your diagnosis is correct. Do you have any SWM switches? If you just have splitters, trace the power through port 1 (red port) of any splitter in the path from the SWM power supply to the LNB. Reseat all the coax connections. The SWM power should be 18 to 25 volts between the center and shield on any coax going into port 1 of any splitter, and the same voltage should be on the common or upstream port of any splitter. If you can get to the LNB, disconnect the coax and measure the voltage on the coax. If the voltage is getting

It's actually my Parent's unit that I installed probably 10+ yr ago. As memory serves me I don't think there are any switches inline as it is only for 1 receiver and 1 tv. Once snow clears on the roof I can test voltage at the LNB. Can I check power voltage right at the SWM power supply first to eliminate that?

Thanks!!

 

[Rebel Racing]

It could also be the SWM tuner inside the HR24. If I remember right the last HR24 was made in 2011, they're all on their last legs.

Ouch! I hope that is not the issue. Is there anyway (easy) to test that?

 

[Rebel Racing]

Crazy question.......could they have changed the dish type in settings and caused this? I'll check next time over there.

 

[Stuart Sweet]

They could have changed the dish type but it's not likely. As far as testing the HR24, I think the BIST tests are still in there, even though they're not in Genies :https://blog.solidsignal.com/docs/How to BIST.pdf

 

[Tom Speer]

It's actually my Parent's unit that I installed probably 10+ yr ago. As memory serves me I don't think there are any switches inline as it is only for 1 receiver and 1 tv. Once snow clears on the roof I can test voltage at the LNB. Can I check power voltage right at the SWM power supply first to eliminate that?

Thanks!!

Yes, you can test the SSM power supply output for the DC output voltage. That's more likely than a bad LNB.

 

[Tom Speer]

If the SWM power is good, I would suspect a bad coax connection somewhere. Most techs I have watched would approach a 10 year old installation by cutting off all the coax connectors and putting on new compression connectors (not crimp connectors).

 

[Rebel Racing]

They could have changed the dish type but it's not likely. As far as testing the HR24, I think the BIST tests are still in there, even though they're not in Genies :https://blog.solidsignal.com/docs/How to BIST.pdf

Well my Dad is real bad for pushing buttons that he doesn't know what they do, LOL. I doubt he would go that deep into settings to get to the dish type though. I will check it just in case.

Yes, you can test the SSM power supply output for the DC output voltage. That's more likely than a bad LNB.

That would be phenomenal if that is all it is. I may take mine over and swap it to test. I am curious as to what voltage his is putting out though.

 

[Rebel Racing]

If the SWM power is good, I would suspect a bad coax connection somewhere. Most techs I have watched would approach a 10 year old installation by cutting off all the coax connectors and putting on new compression connectors (not crimp connectors).

Hummm......since there is only the 1 outside connector perhaps I should replace that if the power tests fine before replacing the LNB.

 

[Jimbo]

Well my Dad is real bad for pushing buttons that he doesn't know what they do, LOL. I doubt he would go that deep into settings to get to the dish type though. I will check it just in case.

That would be phenomenal if that is all it is. I may take mine over and swap it to test. I am curious as to what voltage his is putting out though.

The SWM Power Inserter comes in 2 voltages, either of them should work.
You can try yours if its accessible for you.

 

[Rebel Racing]

The SWM Power Inserter comes in 2 voltages, either of them should work.
You can try yours if its accessible for you.

So if I were to test his output, is anything in the 18-25v good on either inserter?
Thanks!!

 

[Tom Speer]

So if I were to test his output, is anything in the 18-25v good on either inserter?
Thanks!!

The typical SWM power inserter is 21 Volts. That allows for voltage drop in coax and splitters to ensure at least 18 V at the LNB. I am told that the PI for the SWM 8 and Swm 16 switches, which I believe was 29V, works also. The SWM LNB is pretty tolerant of the input voltage, aas long as it gets at least 18 Volts DC.

 

[Rebel Racing]

The typical SWM power inserter is 21 Volts. That allows for voltage drop in coax and splitters to ensure at least 18 V at the LNB. I am told that the PI for the SWM 8 and Swm 16 switches, which I believe was 29V, works also. The SWM LNB is pretty tolerant of the input voltage, aas long as it gets at least 18 Volts DC.

O.K. cool. I'll check his output then. Thanks!!

 

[Jimbo]

O.K. cool. I'll check his output then. Thanks!!

That should at least give you a better idea.

 

[Rebel Racing]

That should at least give you a better idea.

My plan of attack is to check his voltage at the PI first, then if good, change the connectors before swapping out the LNB. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[Rebel Racing]

My plan of attack is to check his voltage at the PI first, then if good, change the connectors before swapping out the LNB. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for all the help so far.

Solved!! So I replace the PI (Amazon next day). Still the 775. I trace all wiring from the roof to the box and all looks fine. Snow covered roof so no good/safe way to take off the LNB to inspect the connector or test voltage. Now, on the day his issue started we did not have any snow for a few days so I didn't check the dish for snow on it--ours was clear and we are only about 5 miles apart. Long (stupid) story short, his dish was covered with ice and snow. Once cleared all was fine. In my "defense", LOL, his dish is on the 2nd storey of the house and you need to go way out in to the road to see all of it. Another thing that had me doubting it was the error code--I don't think I get a 775 when we get snow on ours with our HR54--I could be wrong though. At any rate, thanks for all the help and it turned out to be a user error, LOL.