Correct way to strip RG6 quad???

[TuxCoder]

I personally prefer twist on connectors.

 

[TuxCoder]

... counting the seconds till that gets flamed. Just kidding above!

But seriously, oregonxfile, I really see where you're coming from. I'm the same way and take plenty of flack for it. I'd like to have a 'coax cable signal lossyness etc.' tester of whatever sort may or may not exist... would be nice.

 

[Mike500]

OK...

I've opened a can o worms o sorts....

Tell me...If I strip right down to the inner foil layer, and remove all the excess foil and braid, will that work??

I've seen picture on the net with this strip, except it was for termination with a crimp connector.

Is this totally wrong, and if so , can someone tell me the pros and cons??

Thanks...

X

Yes, you must fold back the first shield layer and remove the first foil layer. Fold back the second foil layer and put the connector on. Do not remove the last foil layer, which is over the white or natural polyethylene foam insulator that insulates the center conductor. This is the proper method. I now use nothing but compression connectors for the best installation.

 

[oregonxfile]

Mike,

What I meant was to strip everything from the cable, EXCEPT the final foil layer which surrounds the foam insulator. MY Belden quad shield, from outer jacket in, goes like this:

Outer jacket
Aluminum braid (40 % coverage)
Foil (100% coverage)
Aluminum braid (60 % coverage)
Foil final layer (100%, bonded to the foam insulator)
solid copper conductor


So, Im talking about stripping everything off EXCEPT the final foil that surrounds the foam insulator, and NOT folding anything back. Clean straight cut.

Also, does it matter if the final shielded foam insulator is recessed a bit inside the connector after terminating, or does it need to be flush with the inner inside bottom (looking straight at the inside of the connection), of the connector?

I ask this only because all of the compression connectors seem to be different in length, which then indicates that the final stripping dimensions are different prior to termination depending on which connector you use. Stripping for my Paladin compression tool, but using Ideal connector leaves the foil/foam covered dielectric recessed somewhat, although the copper conductor does not touch the connector at all, and wouldnt when joined.



Thanks again!!

X

 

[TuxCoder]

I believe it really does need to be flush since that's the first line of defense, so to speak, of the critical inner conductor. Keeping it flush with the "floor" of the connector leaves little or no gap when tightly connected to a female end (which has a similar matching insulator to meet with it).

 

[Mike500]

A straight cut will not allow full contact and retention of the outer shield. The shielded wires must be folded back over the jacket. Not doung so means that the connector is just slid over the shield wires and outer jacket and retention of the shield wires are held by friction, not by tightly held tension. Tightly clamping the ends of the shield wires prevents degrading the electrical contact of the shield wires, which serves as one leg of the voltage switching circuit for the multiswitch or lnb of 15-18 volts. If you are passing only a RF signal, it is not a problem, and might not be a problem for short coax runs. But on long runs, any minor bit or corrosion or separation of the barrel from the shield wires might lead to failure and a resultant voltage drop over time. This will manifest itself in the lost of the even transponders in the signal.

The industry standard is the 1/4"x1/4" strip on the coax. If the center insulator is below the center hole in the barrel, the coax has not been fully seated. Idealy, it should sit about 1/16" or 2mm out of the hole. If you a using a compression tool that applies pressure to the inside of the connector, the plunger will force the center conductor almost flush. Over time it might return to the 2mm protrusion. This protrusion is ideal in that it eliminates the "air" gap between the center conductor insulator and the female socket port. The "air" gap increases the chances of water vapor entry and corrosion. If you look at an F81 female port carefully, you will notice that it is recessed about 1/32" or 1mm.

So, folding back the shield wires enhances the electrical contact surface between the shield and the barrel of the connector. It also increases the connectors resistance to pull off. The bent over shield wires clamped by any type of connector prevents "pull off" and ensures the integrety of the connection for passage of both the RF signal, and more importantly, with dbs, the free conveyance of the lnb switching current.

 

[red hazard]

A Smaller Compression Connector

I know that it will work and work for a long time. This works in engineering all the time. It doesn't meand that it will work in the most extreme conditions. If stripped correctly and prepared correctly, even a standard or trishield connector could be used. It might be even better, since the hole of the retention sleeve is smaller and provides a better seal.

I prefer, however, to go the little bit extra for my high end customers.

I note that in many of your postings it's stated that you have no problems using standard dual/tri shield compression connectors on quad shield RG6 cable. I do not make a living doing installations (I occasionally help a friend who does residential structured wiring & do gratis work for other friends who want their flakey "pro" DBS installation corrected). I was an ET in the Army.

I typically use Belden 7915A trishield (.275" OD w/80% AL braid) because it's easier to use than quad and it's shielding is = to quad according to Belden. Also occasionally use Belden 1694A (dual, .274" OD/w 95% CU braid). HOWEVER when using standard dual/tri shield compression connectors I have to really work hard at getting the coax (both types) completely into the connectors (Digicon DS6 , Stirling SPL6, Holland SLC6, SNS6) and you state it's no problem using standard compression connectors with quad even folding back BOTH braids!!. It doesn't matter how carefully I spread out the folded back braid and what brand of stipping tool used (T&B, Sargent or Palladin). I've even occasionally had the SNS6 connector plastic seal fail to seal properly after compressing using a T&B compression tool.

OK so what's secret? You are either so strong you don't even need a compression tool or the % of braid used must is quite small. What are the specs on the quad you were using? BTW, the few times I've used RCA or Echostar branded RG6 they went on quite easily. I would guess they are 60% braid.

 

[Mike500]

It's all in the care in preparation. It is easier, with Snap-N-Seal connectors, if you use the ones with the separate sleeve and place them over the cable first. Even with the one piece ones, you can pull the sleeve off and place it over the cable. Placing the one piece connectors is more difficult, if you fold the shield wires over first. If you place the sleeve over the cable before stripping it, you'll be fine. You can also do the same with other brands of connectors.

I use Times Fiber with 90% braid, and have used quad shielded cable. Currently, I prefer Commscope 88% braid tri-shield. You have to make sure that you remove all of the foil shield in the area of the shield wires, except the lowest layer on the white center insulator. It is much easier to insert the sleeve prior to folding over the shield wires. If you are using standard RG6 connectors with quad shielded connectors, the sleeve will be very difficult to place after the shield wires have been folded over.

 

[ciaraco]

A wise man once said "Don't let the bastards grind you down." It seems appropriate enough...

 

[oregonxfile]

finally got it right...

After tons of what seemed to be dumb questions, I think I finally got it right!!!

Belden 7916 Quad Shield RG6, T&B Snap-n-Seal connectors, Paladin compression connector tool

Stripped outer jacket, carefully peeled back outer braid(what was left of it). Peeled outer foil, and carefully folded back inner braid as evenly as possible.

Inspected for braid "stragglers" and cut inner foil, to make sure there was neither.

Placed seal of connector on cable (purple for quad shield) Even with folded over braid, went on ok. Pushed on metal connector until foam insulator flush or nearly so with bottom, inside connector. Seated seal into bottom of connector.

Whole thing into my compression tool, compressing until connector 'snaps'
together.

Inspected connection...looks good as advertised!!!

Thanks for all who helped get this right for me!!! I just had a hard time visualizing how the whole thing was supposed to work. It definately pays to get the "good stuff" when it comes to tools and supplies! Anyone want to crawl in my semi-soggy crawlspace to run my cables now??!!??

ANOTHER question!!!

With this cable setup, running 2 cables(for now anyway) to 2 separate receivers, with no splices or splitters along the way, at what point should I be concerned about signal loss for cable runs?? Each individual run should be in the region of 75 feel or so. Also, is it ok to run the cables side by side until they separate and go to each receiver, or should I try to keep them apart if possible once they come off of their respective SW21's?? I'm going to keep them off of the floor of the crawlspace by running them through the floor joists (those combo metal/wood type)

Thanks again for your help!!!


X

 

[ciaraco]

Roughly 125' from LNB to STB is acceptable. Over that and you may want to add line amps.

 

[red hazard]

ANOTHER question!!!

With this cable setup, running 2 cables(for now anyway) to 2 separate receivers, with no splices or splitters along the way, at what point should I be concerned about signal loss for cable runs?? Each individual run should be in the region of 75 feel or so. Also, is it ok to run the cables side by side until they separate and go to each receiver, or should I try to keep them apart if possible once they come off of their respective SW21's?? I'm going to keep them off of the floor of the crawlspace by running them through the floor joists (those combo metal/wood type)

Thanks again for your help!!!


X

It doesn't matter if the coax runs are parallel, crossed, or whatever in relationship to one another. However, try to run them at 90 degress to nearby electrical wiring. In retropect, with Belden 7916A's shielding effectiveness of 110 db (an attenuation factor of 100,000,000,000 times @ 1GHz), it's highly doubtful eletromagnetic interference ingress would be an issue no matter how the coax was run. Of course try to keep the coax runs as short as possible.

 

[red hazard]

A wise man once said "Don't let the bastards grind you down." It seems appropriate enough...

Especially with some of the characters in these forums.

Actually it was General "Vinegar Joe" Stilwell who popularized that loosely translated Latin form of the expression. I was wondering when some knowledgeable person would comment on it.