New user - old Birdview

[bombu]

Hello,

I am in rural western Oregon and I have a solid aluminum Birdview dish on a horizon to horizon mount. It's around 10 feet in diameter. It used to work, late in the last century, but has been surrounded by blackberries for several decades.

I am planning to resurrect it so I've been reading a lot here and elsewhere.

I'm thinking about signing up for service from Rainier and I would appreciate anything any of you have to say about that. The required receiver they sell is expensive but the same model is available used for much much less. Might it be prudent to buy a used one for experimentation and then, if I can get the system functioning and decide to go with Rainier, could I use a splitter and get FTA and Rainier's service at the same time (on a second TV)?

Rainier sells a guide for $85. Is it very useful for my situation?

I have read on this forum about adding limit switches as a common upgrade. Obviously, something must already be in place to keep the dish from moving too far. Why are limit switches needed? Are any other upgrades needed or advisable?

I also read about extending the rods that hold the LNB. Also about modifying the scaler. Are those modifications only relevant to ku band?

I've read that I'd need to enlarge some holes to mount a new LNBF with 5g filters. Otherwise should it be ready to receive c band as is?

Thank you very much for your time and attention.

 

[comfortably_numb]

Never heard of Rainier Satellite, but they sure have heard of this site. They don't seem to like our fearless leader Scott Greczkowski either. Something doesn't pass the sniff test with this outfit.

4DTV | 4DTV Online By Glen Musielak TvroPro | The Official 4DTV Info Site | C Band Satellite Big Dish Programming | Rainier Satellite | C Band Forever | C Band Satellite Online | Glen Musielak

 

[norman881]

You don't need to buy anything from Rainier to set up your system.

 

[primestar31]

I'm thinking about signing up for service from Rainier and I would appreciate anything any of you have to say about that. The required receiver they sell is expensive but the same model is available used for much much less.

Stay FAR, FAR away from Rainier! You'll get just as much FTA stuff for FREE by yourself, IF you rehab that dish. There's plenty of info here to figure it all out.

 

[telstar_1]

Most Birdviews originally used a dual-lnb (c-band) setup so that separate receivers could watch any different of 24 ch's. These were premium systems and often were installed with 2 rx's. Even the mounting post is extra wide in dia. As to the H to H, it should have limit switches already there, but if not, they wouldn't be as key as if using a linear actuator, as long as there'd be nothing for the dish to hit in going to extreme travel. For Ku an original scalar should work with or be adaptable to a dual C-Ku feed if the original feed was specially designed to attach to the feed support (don't remember). When I did upgrades on these I always left the dual LNB setup.

 

[MrMars]

I have never heard anything good about them. $46 a month for A&E, GSN and Hallmark channels? Frndly is significantly cheaper. Half the channels they advertise in their package are actually FTA. $85 for a guide is a complete rip off. I see more red flags on that site then I have fingers...

 

[bombu]

From my experience I can say that Rainier's approach to sales is pretty high pressure. I wouldn't be considering them any time soon, anyway.

Before I consider any commercial service I need to get the blackberries cut. Once I do that I'll post a picture of the front of the dish

Thank you all for your responses! It's very encouraging. But I am worried that my new house might be in the way.

 

[navychop]

NOOOOOO!

EAT the blackberries. MOVE the dish!

 

[phlatwound]

From my experience I can say that Rainier's approach to sales is pretty high pressure. I wouldn't be considering them any time soon, anyway.

Before I consider any commercial service I need to get the blackberries cut. Once I do that I'll post a picture of the front of the dish

Thank you all for your responses! It's very encouraging. But I am worried that my new house might be in the way.View attachment 181522

I've never seen a BV with a linear actuator on it, like yours has. And most of the BVs I ever saw were 8'-6 in diameter, but I know they also had a 9'-6 reflector. Don't think the larger size was very common though. Search for old threads here by Linuxman and possibly Pendragon for some good BV info. I've got a couple of threads also that might be helpful, lots of good info if you have time to check it out...good luck with your project!

 

[bombu]

Don't worry too much about the blackberries. They aren't going to be endangered around here anytime soon. They're our version of kudzu. Before I cleared some blackberries the dish wasn't even visible.

Anyway, it wouldn't be possible to move the dish without cutting them; they're growing though the rods that support the LNB. However, moving the dish might be a good idea if the new house proves to be in the way. Although, honestly, I can't quite imagine how I could accomplish that.

I just looked at the label on the dish. For the model it just says "Antenna."

 

[telstar_1]

I think I remember 10 footers with Birdview. It was a premium system and these were the earlier days before the extra low noise LNBs. Likewise never saw one with a jack. This would definitely need a new arm, and those come with limit switches internal.

 

[bombu]

This would definitely need a new arm, and those come with limit switches internal.
[/QUOTE

Please elaborate, Telstar. Why would I need a new arm? What sort of arm?

Thank you very much.

I can't be exact about the size until I get the blackberries out. I can't get a tape across the diameter.

 

[Titanium]

The mount on this Birdview appears to be an early polar mount type (not a horizon to horizon) with a 36" linear jack (actuator) arm. The actuator may still work, but I recommend that you tear it down, remove the rust, reassemble and lube. Apply 12 VDC (car battery?) to the DC power terminals to see if the actuator moves (if so, also swap the polarity to see if the motor reverses). The actuator may have limit switches. Need to open the cover and see if it has limiter switches and also confirm the type of sensor (reed switch or hall effect).

Also, the polar mount may not have a declination adjustment and was preset for a general region. Would need to view a close-up photo of the top and bottom mounting brackets where the vertical rod passes through to determine if there is a mechanism for declination setting. In the early days, dishes usually only moved between several closely grouped satellites. Often, spacers were placed between the polar mount and the reflector to shim the dish for limited declination adjustment.

 

[bombu]

The mount on this Birdview appears to be an early polar mount type (not a horizon to horizon) with a 36" linear jack (actuator) arm. The actuator may still work, but I recommend that you tear it down, remove the rust, reassemble and lube. Apply 12 VDC (car battery?) to the DC power terminals to see if the actuator moves (if so, also swap the polarity to see if the motor reverses). The actuator may have limit switches. Need to open the cover and see if it has limiter switches and also confirm the type of sensor (reed switch or hall effect).

Also, the polar mount may not have a declination adjustment and was preset for a general region. Would need to view a close-up photo of the top and bottom mounting brackets where the vertical rod passes through to determine if there is a mechanism for declination setting. In the early days, dishes usually only moved between several closely grouped satellites. Often, spacers were placed between the polar mount and the reflector to shim the dish for limited declination adjustment.

Thanks for setting me straight about h to h. It is 9'6" diameter.

I maybe took pictures of the brackets? The dish was set up there and working back in the '80s, if that is relevant to the declination adjustment.

 

[telstar_1]

Right, I don't see a declination adjuster but if the dish worked originally it should be close to good. Same for the azimuth & elevation if unmoved from before.

If that's not the worst actuator arm I've ever seen, it's in the top 10. If intending to have a motorized system I would simply replace it, though a 36" is going to co$t these days. Otherwise if looking to home in on a certain position and leave there, then you could possibly (if lucky) loosen the bolts on the arm clamp and manually move the dish to find signal.

Now you will want to remove the feed cover to see what you have there. Is there still cabling from dish to home?

 

[bombu]

Thanks for setting me straight about h to h. It is 9'6" diameter.

I maybe took pictures of the brackets? The dish was set up there and working back in the '80s, if that is relevant to the declination adjustment.View attachment 181541View attachment 181542

Thanks for setting me straight about h to h. It is 9'6" diameter.

I maybe took pictures of the brackets? The dish was set up there and working back in the '80s, if that is relevant to the declination adjustment.View attachment 181541View attachment 181542

I have very weak cell signal (as well as no broadcast tv) so I'm not entirely sure what gets uploaded until l can see it later.

I took another picture by laying my phone down flat on the feed horn so it shows where the dish is pointed right now.

Also, I have a six foot mesh dish from the top of an RV, a travelsat, if I remember correctly

 

[bombu]

There is still cable but it's cut off. The old house was demolished and replaced. I can find the cut ends.

 

[bombu]

Removing the feed horn cover is very simple. Merely remove the center screw and pull it off…. Not. 45 years of entropy has left it very comfortable where it is. Should I spray it with something?

This is a lot more fun than the stuff I should be doing,

 

[Titanium]

I don't see any declination setting on the mount photos. You probably will find that the installer placed spacers on a few of the bolts between the mount and the reflector. If there are no declination spacer shims, the dish would accurately track c-band satellites within approximately 30 degrees of the arc. You might find that you will need to add declination shim spacers between the mount and reflector to accurately track a larger section of the arc.

In the 80's most programming was received from 5 or 6 satellites in this smaller section of the arc. Now days, it is quite common to move 80 degrees or more for satellites spread across the arc from the Eastern to Wrstern horizons. In Western Oregon with clear line of sight, you might receive satellites between 58 and 139w degrees, but more typical in the West to be able to see satellites between 80 - 139w (though you might be able to see the Western Pacific Rim satellites around 180w).

It wouldn't surprise me if you find a very antique feed assembly under the cover. Probably a 1980's LNA and other unspported technology. The feed assembly can be updated to more current hardware such as a LNBF for a very reasonable cost. Take a photo under the hood.

 

[telstar_1]

My bet is dual LNBs, and they will be huge pieces, painted in white. But given the lack of H to H mount, it could be early enough to have an LNA and BDC.