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Old ui looked cleaner to me

You have 2 lnb , dp 34 dp 44 and a 922 heading your way. Have fun setting it up. Post how it goes. I remember those days with dishes all over my yard switches and wires everywhere. If they switch back to 110 and 119 I will have to break out the old setup.
Thanks so much! I'll post on here and a few videos on my youtube channel HoppertheKangarooTech
 
That was the Dish that came with my original Dish 2000 receiver in 1996. The Dish 500 came with my JVC HM-DSR100U in 1998.

Dish dropped the 811 pretty quick after the ViP 411 and 211 were released. I know they could get 61.5°W and the Western Arc 110°W/119°W/129°W satellites, but whether one could pick up the additional 72°W/77°W of the Eastern Arc is questionable.

Once we got the Hopper 3 and 4K Joey, we were pretty much set. Hard to believe we've had it for nine years now. I used to be upgrading hardware every few years before the Hopper 3.
What was the user interface like on this?
 

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When they were launching the new UI with the iTV apps, they made fun of that padlock in the guide on one of the Charlie Chats. Can't remember if it was Jim or Charlie that said the padlock now looks like a lock.
Here's a 121 superdish I spotted at a local trust bank last month. I'm surprised it's still there! Lol
 

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When they were launching the new UI with the iTV apps, they made fun of that padlock in the guide on one of the Charlie Chats. Can't remember if it was Jim or Charlie that said the padlock now looks like a lock.
Here's the 922 it's awesome!
 

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Based on the Dish 5000 receiver, it featured the first-generation GUI, like the screen shot dishdude posted here.
Here's my switch setup in my garden shed...(I know it's not a setup that'll make a dish tech approve of it but it works though!)
 

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Here's my switch setup in my garden shed...(I know it's not a setup that'll make a dish tech approve of it but it works though!)
Normally you want to avoid bending your coax cables past a certain minimum radius (depends on the cable); one example I found said 75 mm (or 3") which would give you a minimum circle diameter of 1/2 foot. You can run into signal reliability issues bending the cable too sharply as the strain it puts on the center conductor and the foam insulation can cause the foam to compress on the inside of the bend and stretch thin on the outside. Over time and temperature changes the center conductor can eventually make contact with the shield, causing a short. Before that, though, the capacitance of the cable at that point will increase which may cause a drop in the higher frequency signals.

I know the DP34 and DPP44 say "Mount this Side Up" but that's for exposed environments. Inside your shed, you could straighten your cable runs by rotating your switches 90° and running them one above the other. These switches are solid-state devices so there isn't really an "Up" or "Down", but environmentally they may be more weatherproof when mounted with the Up Side up. The only reservation I would have with the DPP44 is the fins for thermal management work best when they align with a vertical movement of air; mounting it with them running side-to-side may reduce the heatsink's effectiveness.

Also, make sure you run a copper ground wire between the two switches as well as the ground rod. You'll also want to bond the ground rod to your service ground to prevent a ground loop which would be observed by a 60 Hz humming in your audio output.

I studied Electrical Engineering at Purdue University in the 1970s, but switched to Computer Programming in my professional life. I'm an amateur electrical guy, who learned about ground loops in-person installing my TV antenna systems in my two homes. There are other members on this site who install/installed Dish and DirecTV professionally and they should be able to correct any misinformation I may have presented here.

Thanks for documenting your tinkering and efforts. Learning should always be encouraged!
 
Normally you want to avoid bending your coax cables past a certain minimum radius (depends on the cable); one example I found said 75 mm (or 3") which would give you a minimum circle diameter of 1/2 foot. You can run into signal reliability issues bending the cable too sharply as the strain it puts on the center conductor and the foam insulation can cause the foam to compress on the inside of the bend and stretch thin on the outside. Over time and temperature changes the center conductor can eventually make contact with the shield, causing a short. Before that, though, the capacitance of the cable at that point will increase which may cause a drop in the higher frequency signals.

I know the DP34 and DPP44 say "Mount this Side Up" but that's for exposed environments. Inside your shed, you could straighten your cable runs by rotating your switches 90° and running them one above the other. These switches are solid-state devices so there isn't really an "Up" or "Down", but environmentally they may be more weatherproof when mounted with the Up Side up. The only reservation I would have with the DPP44 is the fins for thermal management work best when they align with a vertical movement of air; mounting it with them running side-to-side may reduce the heatsink's effectiveness.

Also, make sure you run a copper ground wire between the two switches as well as the ground rod. You'll also want to bond the ground rod to your service ground to prevent a ground loop which would be observed by a 60 Hz humming in your audio output.

I studied Electrical Engineering at Purdue University in the 1970s, but switched to Computer Programming in my professional life. I'm an amateur electrical guy, who learned about ground loops in-person installing my TV antenna systems in my two homes. There are other members on this site who install/installed Dish and DirecTV professionally and they should be able to correct any misinformation I may have presented here.

Thanks for documenting your tinkering and efforts. Learning should always be encouraged!
I did put a ground wire I'm not sure if you can see it because it blends in with the coax
 

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